How great is a dress with a hood!? This mash-up, dubbed the Blue-Denia by our oh so talented pattern tester Femke, is the perfect combination of modesty and style! It's a cool combination of the Bluebird and Gardenia patterns. Follow the pictures and steps below to create yours today! Don't have these patterns yet? You can grab both for 25% OFF with the code HACKSTER and dive in.
STEP 1: Print and assemble the all pattern pieces of both patterns. You'll start with the front and back bodices, but you'll need the sleeve, hood, and godet pieces for later. (You won't need the cuff pieces unless you're doing the long sleeve version, and the kangaroo pocket is optional...we've never seen the kangaroo pocket mixed with the godets, but it could be fun!)
FRONT BODICE OF THE BLUEBIRD
FRONT BODICE OF THE GARDENIA (you'll flip this over so the fold is on the same side as the Bluebird)
STEP 2: Lay the Gardenia front bodice piece on top of the Bluebird front bodice piece. These will align easily if you match up where they intersect at the armscye. You may want to hold them together with a few small pieces of tape to prevent pattern shifting. * The Bluebird bodice will have to be cut at the shorten/lengthen line, or folded up out of the way so the godet portion of the lower bodice can be cut.
STEP 3: Match the back bodices up in the exact same way. These happen to align really well at the shoulder seam. Again, you'll have to cut or move the lower portion of the Bluebird bodice out of the way to cut the godet portion of this pattern piece. (That's the 'hole' where the godet is inserted, the godet piece will be cut separately as the exact pattern piece from the Gardenia-no alterations needed.)
STEP 4: Once you've lined up your two pattern pieces, lay it on your fabric on the fold and cut as one dress front bodice piece. The upper portion will be the Bluebird bodice with the correct armscye for the sleeves and you will blend it into the Gardenia at the top of the godet. *Don't mind the rotary cutter in the picture-at least it's within reach when you're ready to cut! :-)
Repeat the same process to cut the back piece for your Blue-Denia.
STEP 5: Cut out the sleeve and hood (if using) pieces from the Bluebird pattern and sew the shoulder seams right sides together. Attach the sleeves as shown in the Bluebird pattern. (We prefer the flat method over the set-in sleeve method)
STEP 6: Cut out the godet pieces using either same, coordinating, or contrast fabric! This is your chance to really get creative. We've seen some really amazing effects using lace, mesh, and custom printed fabric for these godet pieces-and they are a great scrap buster!
STEP 7: Now follow the Gardenia pattern tutorial to attach your godet pieces to your dress. You will essentially attach each godet to the front bodice to create the full front of the dress. Then, you will attach the back to the front as you would a regular side seam, starting at the underside of the sleeve and following all the way down to the hem.
*If adding a hood (and I mean, why wouldn't you??) you will want to switch back to the Bluebird tutorial and follow the step by step instructions for cutting, assembling, and attaching the hood to the dress.
And here it is! Isn't it just such a fun blend of fancy and casual!?
Seriously, the hood with the subtle contrast in fabric totally makes the look! It's the perfect transition piece from summer to fall.
Femke did such an amazing job with this mash up don't you think? She even put a lot of thought into the finishing touches like adding a lettuce rolled edge to the hem. This gives this new style something so special and sweet.
Think you need one too? Don't forget to use your code HACKSTER for 25% off both of these patterns! We'd love to see what you create, so be sure and join our sewing discussion fun in our Facebook group Sageville Patterns Sewing Group. Or you can tag us on insta at https://www.instagram.com/sagevillepatterns/
To see more of Femke's amazing sewing skills, you can find her blog here!